2015-01-23

New Look 6303: almost

New Look 6303

Hi everyone,

This is my first make of 2015: New Look 6303, a crossover blouse I got very excited about after seeing many lovely versions on Pattern Review.

Those kind of blouses are all over the internet and I wanted to have a silk one, but without paying the big bucks in RTW.


The pattern: New Look 6303 - I made view C / Le patron: New Look 6303 - j'ai fait la version C


So here is my version in electric blue silk georgette; the stuff is from Fabric Mart, bought during one of their crazy sales. It was my first time using silk georgette and I didn't find it exceedingly difficult to handle, except that you have to be cautious during the cutting stage 'cause that fabric likes to shift (despite cutting single layer I had a bit of that). Other than that it pressed very well, and silk georgette likes details like narrow bias, narrow hems and precise topstitching.


The back: I added 1 cm to the hem / Le dos: j'ai ajouté 1 cm à l'ourlet


My two main changes to New Look 6303 were the sleeves and the neck opening. For one thing, I like 3/4 sleeves for the freedom of movement they give, so I shortened the sleeves by 1'', and went for a bias band to finish the sleeve opening, instead of the suggested elasticated sleeve.

The sleeve is finished with a bias band / Manche finie avec une bande en biais

I also made the keyhole opening narrower (4 cms wide instead of 6 cms), and added 1 cm on each front edge to compensate. I didn't want to tack the front as per the instructions; I think it interrupts the flow of the crossover, and the tack makes the fabric fall weirdly.




Fit wise, I made a size 8; to give you an idea of the amount of ease included in this pattern, my measurements put me close to a size 12. I also had to correct the shoulder line which was sitting too much towards the front: a 1/4'' correction (substracted from the back shoulder, added to the front shoulder) solved the problem.

I warn you that the side seams of the front piece are too long compared to the back side seams: it's difficult to ease the extra fabric in the seam, and next time I'm adding 1 cm to the back to correct that.


I find that blouse a little boxy / Je trouve ce modèle de blouse un peu 'boxy'

I styled it with wide leg jeans and tan accessories for a boho chic look / J'y suis allée pour le look 'boho chic' avec un jeans à jambe large et des accessoires couleur tan


Here you can catch a glimpse of the shirt tail hem - I also tried it with a different pair of jeans / Ici on peut apercevoir l'ourlet pan de chemise à l'arrière - j'ai aussi essayé avec un autre modèle de jeans

To end this post, I'll say that I have mixed feelings about my blouse. The main thing that bugs me is the sleeve length. When I look at my pictures, I see that it is almost even with the front, and that really hurts my sense of proportions! (IMHO sleeves should be shorter or longer than the front). The other thing if the front opening: I think I should have added more fabric to the front edges to make the opening narrower. 

So I feel I'm almost there with New Look 6303, but I need to tweak the pattern a little bit more. Readers, do you think shortening the sleeves would make the blouse look better? What would you do if you were me?


Français:

Bonjour tout le monde,

Voici donc ma première création en 2015: New Look 6303, une blouse à devant croisé, un modèle pour lequel je me suis enthousiasmée après avoir vu plusieurs jolies versions sur Pattern Review.

Ce modèle de blouse est littéralement partout, et j'en voulais une en soie mais sans avoir à payer cher pour un modèle acheté en magasin.

Ma version est réalisée en soie georgette bleu électrique; le tissu vient de chez Fabric Mart, je l'ai eu en super spécial durant l'une de leurs ventes folles! C'était la première fois que je travaillais avec de la soie georgette et je n'ai pas trouvé que c'était un tissu excessivement difficile. Il faut juste faire attention lors de la coupe car le tissu bouge (même si j'ai taillé en simple épaisseur il a bougé un peu). La soie georgette se presse admirablement bien, et met en valeur les détails tels que les ourlets étroits, les bandes en biais et les sûrpiqures précises.

Mes 2 principales modifications à New Look 6303 ont été les manches et l'ouverture devant. D'abord, j'ai toujours aimé les manches 3/4 pour la liberté de mouvement qu'elles procurent, j'ai donc raccourci la manche de 1'' et ajouté une bande en biais étroite pour finir la manche, au lieu d'une finition avec élastique. Ensuite, j'ai rétréci l'ouverture devant (4 cms au lieu de 6 cms), et ajouté 1 cm à chaque bord devant pour compenser. Je n'ai pas 'tacké' le devant tel que suggéré dans le patron; je trouve que cela interrompt le drapé du devant, et ça fait que le tissu tombe bizarrement.

Côté taille et ajustement, j'ai cousu une taille 8; pour vous donner une idée de l'aisance incluse dans ce patron, mes mensurations sont près d'une taille 12. J'ai aussi corrigé la ligne d'épaule qui tombait trop vers l'avant: une correction de 1/4'' (soustraite de l'épaule arrière, ajoutée à l'épaule devant) a solutionné le problème.

Je vous mets en garde au sujet de la couture côté du devant, qui est trop longue par rapport à celle du côté dos: il y a trop de tissu et c'est difficile de le résorber dans la couture. La prochaine fois j'ajoute 1 cm au dos pour corriger le tout.

En terminant, j'avoue que je ne suis pas convaincue à 100% par ma blouse. La chose qui me dérange le plus est la longueur de la manche. En regardant mes photos je constate que les manches sont à peu près au même niveau que le devant, et cela heurte mon sens des proportions (à mon avis la manche devrait être soit plus longue ou plus courte que le devant). L'autre chose c'est le devant: il me semble que j'aurais dû ajouter un peu plus de tissu pour faire en sorte que le devant ouvre moins grand.

Je sens que j'y suis presque avec New Look 6303, mais à mon avis je dois retravailler un peu le patron pour qu'il soit parfait. Croyez-vous que raccourcir la manche améliorerait le look de ma blouse? Si vous étiez à ma place, que feriez-vous?

24 commentaires:

  1. It's beautiful. I like the changes you made to improve on the pattern. Mais... what does the bottom of the front look like? I'm guessing it's not tucked in, but kept like that by a concealed band or elastic?

    RépondreSupprimer
  2. Thanks for your kind comments! No, there's no elastic or band at the bottom front, it's just the criss cross drape that falls like that...

    RépondreSupprimer
  3. I LOVE your blouse! The color and the creation. I didn't really think there was anything to your sleeve issue, but after looking back at your photos, I see your point. But, I still think it looks fantastic. I have never noticed the sleeve balance issue until you mentioned it. So, thank you for that. I have this pattern and had planned to make it at some point. That point will be this weekend because of your post and blog! Great work!!

    RépondreSupprimer
  4. Thank you Sewful! I hope you make it - it has the potential to be a great pattern!

    RépondreSupprimer
  5. Lovely! Great colour.
    SSB https://facebook.com/sassysewingbees

    RépondreSupprimer
    Réponses
    1. Thanks - it is indeed a great colour and I wish I had bought more!

      Supprimer
  6. I love this blouse on you! This shade of blue is so flattering and the silk georgette drapes so beautifully. I love the back view as well. I don't have a problem with the sleeve length myself, but if I were you I would pin up a horizontal pleat in the sleeve and play around with changing the length in front of a mirror before I cut anything. You may just decide that the length you've chosen works the best. Great job.

    RépondreSupprimer
    Réponses
    1. Thank you Nadine! I still haven't decided if the sleeve will stay that way or if I'll change it, we'll see...

      Supprimer
  7. You always make the prettiest things. This top is one of them.

    RépondreSupprimer
  8. Thank you so much for your kind comment, Faye.

    RépondreSupprimer
  9. I think your blouse is really gorgeous and I think you are right about the proportions. If you cut 2 cm off the length it would please your eye better.... although I don't think it looks bad, but if you can't not see what you see and it bothers you shorten them.

    RépondreSupprimer
    Réponses
    1. Yes you're probably right - 2 cms would make enough of a difference to make it pleasing to the eye.

      Supprimer
  10. Lovely blouse and the adjustments you've made perfect an interesting pattern. I wouldn't change a thing.

    RépondreSupprimer
    Réponses
    1. Thank you Gail! Right now I'm working on another version and I'm playing with the sleeve length, we'll see!

      Supprimer
  11. Beautiful first go round! I would shorten the sleeve. Even though you are very lean, the eye moves across and adds width at that point. If you push the sleeve up, will it lightly grab you and stay up? Maybe not too snug elastic per the original is not a bad idea?

    RépondreSupprimer
  12. I am not a Mr! I'm Wendy and female. ;- )

    RépondreSupprimer
    Réponses
    1. Hi Wendy, glad to meet you! ;-) You are right, the proportions would be better if the sleeve was shorter. Yes, this is a good idea, maybe putting in some narrow elastic through the bias band could make it work!! I could just push the sleeve up, et voilà!

      Supprimer
  13. I hadn't noticed the sleeve length until you pointed it out but I think you're right that a different length would be a small improvement - shorter probably. I do like the blouse on you though and the blue is awesome!

    RépondreSupprimer
  14. Thanks Catherine - yes the sleeve definitely needs to be shorter! Isn't it funny how the photos reveal all the little problems?

    RépondreSupprimer
  15. Your blouse looks so elegant and classy on you. The draping is absolutely beautiful and I think you made it the perfect length too :)

    RépondreSupprimer
  16. Thanks Carolyn for your kind comments!

    RépondreSupprimer
  17. You look absolutely gorgeous in this blouse! I love the color - beautiful. And I believe the changes you made were excellent. I agree that the sleeves should be either shorter or longer.

    RépondreSupprimer
  18. Thank you so much for your kind comments! Unfortunately I've decided to 'retire' this blouse - I cannot fix the front opening which is too wide for my taste... Hopefully next time I'll get it right!

    RépondreSupprimer
  19. Virginie, this is a great color on you - and I'll bet you looking good in all jewel tones. Top is seriously stylish. Congrats!

    RépondreSupprimer